Friday 23 September 2016

SYRACUSE: MEETING POINT OF MEDITERRANEAN CULTURES.


 By the students and teachers who travelled to Sicily.

The city is a modern one today with a population of about 125,000 inhabitants, located in the south-east of Sicily and home to many different cultures since its birth about 2,700 years ago. Travelling to Syracuse from Catania is easy but the traveller will need at least two days or three days if he wants to explore the area a bit in depth. Buses depart from Catania but they are not very frequent. A return ticket costs about 10 euro and the trip takes about an hour and a half.



Home town of Archimedes, the famous Greek mathematician and philosopher, it was described as 'the most beautiful Greek city' by Cicero. It includes two parts, the one on the main island, where Neapolis and the Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica (about 40 kms away), are located and the island of Ortygia, inhabited for around 3,000 years. They were included in the World Heritage Sites list by UNESCO in 2005. 

The importance of Syracuse lies in the fact that it's an amazing example of the cultures which have inhabited the Mediterranean for centuries (or we'd rather say millenniums): Greeks, Romans, the Byzantine Empire, Muslims..., with Sicily and Syracuse as a strategic commercial and cultural spot in the middle of the 'Mare Nostrum', to establish connections and trade between the East and the West.





Just as you enter the outskirts of Syracuse on a bus along Viale Paolo Orsi, you are impressed by the Greek and Roman archaelogical park of Neapolis, created in 1952-55, that you can intuit on the left, behind a metal fence. It was a pity there was no time for investigating the site, which gathers together a Roman amphitheatre, a spectacular Greek theatre, the sanctuary to Apollo, the altar of Hieron and the popular Orecchio di Dionisio amongst other incredible remains, showing the establishment of the Greeks on the island as far as the 8th century B.C. and of the Romans by the 3rd century B.C. 



 

 The Ancient Syracuse is located on the island of Ortygia, which is accessed along two bridges that connect it to the mainland of Sicily. Ponte Umbertino offers an ideal entrance to the small island providing nice views of the historical site on the right and a view to a small marina on the left. Walking past Piazza Emanuele Pancali, you'll find the first relevant monument on the island: the Temple of Apollo of which just two columns remain. Piazza Archimede with the beautiful Fontana di Artemide in the middle is reached after walking along a commercial street called Corso Giacomo Matteotti. The fountain displays a sculpture of the nymph Artemis, symbol of Ortygia. From here, if you take the street on the left, you'll be in Via Roma, one of the narrow streets with beautiful churches, palaces and buildings with elegant wrought iron balconies which adorn their façades and show the medieval and baroque character of this part of the city. Tranquility is the word that best describes the ambience of the streets full of small typical craft shops, remains of ancient kinds of trade.

   
 

When the visitor goes past Via del Crocifisso and turns right at the next crossing, he'll be at Piazza Minerva, a long narrow luminous square filled with terraces on both sides. After passing the terraces, looking to the left, the tourist willl be surprised by the sight of a few Greek columns which stand out from the side of the wonderful Cathedral. If he keeps walking along Piazza Minerva, he'll eventually reach Piazza Duomo. This is an amazing square with the quite unusual shape of half an ellipse.
                Piazza Minerva                                                                    Piazza Duomo
      





     

The Cathedral, which dominates the square, was built on the ancient Greek temple of Athena (dating from 480 B.C.), transformed in a Christian church around the 6th century A.D. and rebuilt in Baroque style, in the 17th century. Therefore, integrated on the side walls of the building, you can see the Greek columns (14 on the long side) which remain from the Greek period. The façade is richly decorated with columns, statues and emblems. It shows the influence of the Spanish Baroque as, at that time, by the end of the 17th century, when Sicily was still ruled by the crown of Aragon. Under this influence, the combination of the different elements conveys a feeling of movement, strengthened by the group of stairs which take to the main entrance. 

  
But the best part of this emblematic construction is the interior, which features simpler structures as it keeps the original Greek plan and combines at the same time rustic walls and Baroque details. As you go past the entrance your first thought is 'Wow, how old this cathedral is!'. In contrast to the bright clear outer appearance, the interior is dark and transmits the feeling of peacefulness and relaxation with a nice altar at the far end painted in dark green and adorned with an ancient crucifix. Everywhere you look, you realize that it has been built through very different architectonic styles. The Greek columns which are vaguely perceived outside are clearly seen integrated in the structure inside, embedded in the walls. A beautiful Norman baptismal font held by a group of small bronze lions, dating from the 13th century, as well as some Norman mosaics can be seen at one of the small chapels on the sides. There is a little museum devoted to St. Lucy, the patron saint of Syracuse, next to this chapel. The entrance to the Cathedral is not free, you must pay a little fare of about 2 euro.




  The monuments on the square are outstanding pieces of art. All of them are palaces in Baroque style and there is a beautiful church too, on the right side of the square. Here is a brief description of the most relevant ones.

Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco. In its previous version, it dated back to the 15th century and was owned by the Arezzo family until it was destroyed by a violent earthquake in 1693. It was, then, bought by the family Beneventano and refurbished in the Sicilian Baroque style. The works were directed by the Sicilian architect Luciano Alì, who rebuilt it around an enclosed courtyard. Today it is a perfect example of baroque architecture. It has housed important leaders like the British Admiral Horatio Nelson or King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies (founder of the House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies), whose father (Charles III of Spain) was Spanish. A monolith on top of the door to the central balcony shows an inscription so that the visit of king Ferdinand would be remembered.

On the left of Palazzo Beneventano, Palazzo Arezzo della Targia, built by the Arezzo family in the 15th century can be admired too.





 
 
Palazzo Vermexio (or The Senate Palace), which today hosts the Town Hall of Syracuse, iss a monument which dates back to the 17th century and its construction was directed by the architect GiovanniVermexio, who came from Spanish origins. Its style is mainly Baroque and its main characteristic is the perfect geometrical design of its exterior. The balcony divides the ground floor with Renaissence decoration from the firts one, which is Baroque. A small gecko carved on the stone can be seen on the left cornice. It is like a kind of signature representing the architect.
   



Palazzo Arcivescovile (The Archbishop's Palace). The palace, as we know it today, was ordered by Juan de Torres Osorio, a Spanish priest who became bishop in Syracuse and Catania (Sicily) and, later, in Oviedo and Valladolid (Spain). In Syracuse he was known because of his good heart and charity when dealing with the poor. The construction of the palace was started in 1618 and it was assigned to the same family of architects as the Palazzo Vermexio, in this case, to Andrea Vermexio. Its style is late Baroque mixed with Neoclassical.


Santa Lucia alla Badia is a very beautiful church located on the right of Piazza del Duomo. The original church was destroyed by the earthquake in 1693 as some other monuments on the square. Its façade displays two amazing twisted columns on both sides of the entrance, which confer movement from ground to sky. An elegant balcony in wrought iron separates the ground floor from the upper part like in most other edifices on the square. In the same way, it is decorated in late Baroque style, dating from the 18th century. Its most outstanding feature is the painting by Caravaggio, The Burial of St. Lucy, which can be seen inside.


  

Castello Maniace originally was a Byzantine fort located at the far end of the island and named after a Byzantine Greek general, (George Maniakes). Afterwards, it was transformed in a citadel and castle between 1232 and 1240 by the Emperor Frederick II (Holy Roman Emperor). It became a royal residence by the end of the 13th century, after the Spanish king Peter III of Aragon conquered Sicily becoming its king too. Between 1305 and 1536 the castle hosted the Spanish queens: Constance of Aragon, Maria of Aragon, Blanche I of Navarre and the second wife of Ferdinand II (Ferdinand the Catholic), Germana de Foix.

It can be visited today but you must pay attention to the scheduled times or, otherwise, you can be trapped inside as it happened to some people when we were investigating it from outside.


The Fountain of Arethusa comes from Greek times and is located in the oldest part of the ancient Ortygia. It is a nice pool where some papyrus grow and a group of fish swim. An old legend related to Arethusa, a river nymph, who dove into the sea in Greece and appeared here in Sicily in the form of a spring is associated to the fountain.



 
Palazzo Bellomo, which is home to a National Museum, the Museum of the Papyrus, the church of St. Martin, the church of San Cristoforo, the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and many other churches and palaces.

When you walk along the pretty narrow medieval streets, you are amazed at some churches as they are located in a really tiny space. As well, you must pay attention to the beautiful decoration many buildings display. As well as it features many other influences, Ortygia in Syracuse is a live proof of the Spanish heritage in Sicily. Even there is a street which is called 'Via della Maestranza'. Maestranza is a Spanish word, very popular in Andalusia. It can refer to a place were armoury is made or a group of gentlemen who practise horse riding.

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